Thursday 2 June 2011

The Hands of Living Mutually

The city of Pohang is famous (okay maybe that’s pushing it), Pohang is well-known for two things mainly; Asia’s most profitable steel mill, POSCO, and for the abundance of seafood (easily seen at Jukdo Market where every species of fish, crustacean and seaweed abound). On every street and alleyway, there is a seafood restaurant (not of my culinary taste – raw, moving, alive squid and catfish are a real treat here).

But Pohang has a third, lesser known tourist treasure. Well beyond the smoke and haze of the POSCO factory, lies a small fishing village, Homigot, on the east of the city. While the beaches in this little town aren’t the most beautiful and are too rocky for swimming, there is a piece of art worth seeing; the “Hands of Living Mutually” or “Hands of Harmony” as they are better known.

These are two massive bronze and granite sculptures of hands stretching up to the sky. The oddity in the situation is that the one hand (the right hand) stretches up from the water in a small cove. And the second bronze hand (the left and of equal proportion) stretches up from dry land on the Homigot Sunrise Square. The hand in the water is the main attraction, particularly at sunrise, when the sun seems to be rising through the fingers of the hand. As Homigot is on the east coast, the sun rises here first in Korea.

Apparently, the hands were constructed in 1999 “to symbolize continuing efforts of all Korean citizens to pursue a better quality of life” (www.frikworld.com). This charming little place is a bit of an absurd tourist magnet. Photographers from all over the country come to take pictures of the sun rising through the fingers of the hand. Some use cellphones, others are professionals. Some will even venture into the water to be closer to the Hand and prove they were really there.

A couple friends and I decided to visit Homigot on a day off. We didn’t make the sunrise, of course. I am not sure what I was expecting but I was a little disappointed by the Hands of Harmony. It is obviously a fantastic artistic concept and quite a sight to behold, this hand stretching up from the ocean. But the Hand was really only a few metres from the shore and it wasn’t nearly as big as I had expected. Beyond the Hand though, stretched the ocean as far as the eye can see. We had a little childish fun scrambling over the rocks and taking silly pictures. The water was also pleasantly warm.

According to the locals and some blogs, New Year's Eve is presumably the best time to visit as there are fireworks and the Homigot National Sunrise Festival runs until 7:30am. Some people go during summer, when the weather is more pleasant. There are hotels scattered around the place and they are in walking distance but some visitors bring a sleeping bag, insect repellant and some soju to get them through to sunrise.

A good one and a half hour bus ride from the Intercity Bus Station or an expensive cab ride away, visiting the Hands of Harmony is a pleasant outing, whether one visits during the day or to watch the sunrise. There is a lighthouse and museum in the vicinity as well as some tourist stores, seafood eateries and several little food and beverage stalls. Don’t buy the roasted chestnuts though, they are expensive and not at all worth it (from experience). A slush puppy is definitely recommendable.

And it is one of the places you just have to see in Pohang city…

Tennis makes memories...

My limited experience of Korean tennis has taken place in the mountains (where I work) and at one tournament in the city. Overall, it has been most surprising, decidedly enjoyable and a little strange, to say the least.

When I arrived at my main school in a little village in the mountains, it was winter and not very pretty. The school is relatively small, with the big field in front and outbuildings at the back, where teachers can stay overnight. The caretaker of the school stays there permanently. There are also the "toilets". What I did notice was a dilapidated old gravel tennis court behind the janitor’s house. I assumed that no one used the court anymore and that it had been left to ruin.

March and most of April passed by in flurry of stress, miscommunication and traveling. I hadn’t thought of tennis at all. After all, I hadn’t really played in England and I suppose I hadn’t expected to play much in Korea either. But in mid-April as the blossoms began to show and the trees and grass got a little greener, I noticed some of the teachers heading over to the tennis court. Next thing, they were rolling the court (which is literally made of sand, similar to beach sand) over and over to compress the soil. Then, the net went up (it is far too high but there is nowhere to attach it at the centre) and the lines were painted with chalk. I couldn’t believe it.

The men obviously assumed I didn’t play tennis, for when I told them I could, they were incredibly excited! I still don’t think they thought I could actually play properly, for when I hit the court one day, all the students were allowed to come and watch me for a few minutes. This never happens in Korea. Academics come first, always, no exceptions. So this must have been a BIG deal. The next day, the teachers even started to call me “Tennis Ace” in the corridors.

When we first started to play tennis after lessons, the other teachers were very rusty. But over time and with much practice, everyone has greatly improved. The music teacher has a ‘killer’ volley and smashing skills; the Korean teacher is a master of touch and with practice, has clearly shown he is by far the best player at the school; the vice principal must have been brilliant in his heyday, he still has the forehand to show for it; the math teacher is young and keen to learn, he picked up the backhand slice after only a few attempts. He has a wonderful style.

In the last few weeks, my main co-teacher, who is just starting out, bought a new Babolat racquet. The school bought a box of tennis balls the other day. And the head teacher and sport teacher headed off into the mountains yesterday and came back with a truckload of red clay to add to our “beach court” (as I affectionately name it).

The court is obviously very uneven as we do not have professionals rolling and measuring for us. In some places, the balls bounce and in others, they do not. If it rains, the ground is saturated and actually dangerous to play on. We do, anyway. As I said, the net is about 10 inches too high and there are no proper fences so the balls get lost on a regular basis. But as the vice principal says: “Same conditions for all!” And so we get on with it.

At the end of April, my school entered six of us into the Pohang City interschool tournament. My little school had great aspirations with me on the team but unfortunately, it was a doubles tournament and I couldn’t win alone, although the Korean teacher and I came very close. (Doubles seems to be the main form of the game, probably due to the lack of tennis courts)

I was one of three women present and the only foreigner. This created much fuss and it also meant that there were many people watching our court. My mother and a few others will know that I am not very good under pressure and even worse when there are people watching. I managed to keep my cool though and I played a good game. We may have even won our second match if we had played the usual ‘best of three sets’ format.

Korean tennis etiquette is truly something to behold and is probably my favourite part of tennis in this country. When both couples are ready to commence the match, all four players walk to the net and bow and shake hands as a sign of respect for each other. On completing the set, all four players walk to the net and bow and shake hands once more.

There is no such thing as the spinning of the racquet (rough or smooth, up or down, W or M, p or d). One person from each couple with do “rock, paper, scissors” to determine the winner. The winner can then choose to serve of receive. Whichever side you warmed/knocked up on, that is the side you remain on. Before serving the first ball of every game, the server will greet the receiver when he serves to them: “Annyeong-haseyo!” (Good day!/ Hello!) I suppose this is similar to what I would say at home: “Enjoy the match!”

The scoring is my favourite. In tennis scoring, we use “fifteen, thirty, forty, deuce, advantage”. If we are to shorten the score when playing social, we use the abbreviations “five-thirty”, “thirty-forts”, “your ad” etc. Here in Korea, they say (and it makes much more sense, if you ask me) “fi-thir”, “for-thir”, “service” (server’s advantage) and “receive” (reciever’s advantage).

Thank goodness I can play tennis. It has saved my soul here in the mountains. Sometimes, I’ll only play once a week (as most of my lessons are in the late afternoon right before we go home) or sometimes, I shan’t play at all. But sport, like music, is common ground. It is a form of communication all by itself. I always say it and I shall say it again; without sport (and in particular, the game of tennis), I would have far less wonderful memories and far less friends…