A taste of Tokyo

"Please discover your own Tokyo and take it home with you as a precious souvenir," said the tourist brochure we picked up at our 84-bed mixed dorm capsule hostel in Akebonobashi. It was New Year's Eve and we were a Irish lass, a Scotswoman and a South African. We had no idea what Tokyo had in store for us. It proved to be a highly entertaining trip of many a fall, fail and fantastic discovery.

Japan, and especially Tokyo, is a very expensive place. Before departing, we'd decided to "see" rather than to "eat". Marian, the Irish lass and our resident Japan expert, stressed, however, that we needed to try one specific dish called okonomiyaki; a Japanese savoury pancake containing various ingredients. With our main goal in mind, we drank a highly classy can of beer in the departure lounge and hopped on an airplane with the least amount of seating space in the world.

Day 1:
We arrived in Tokyo on New Year's Eve, which was of course very exciting; the idea of bringing in the new year in a foreign land. It had to be better than the overrated, try-and-glue-your-eyes-open-'til-midnight New Year's experiences we've all had in the past. The hilarity started early on when Kerry, the sober Scotswoman, fell and rolled four times across the road parallel to our hostel, leaving bottles of Sprite in her wake.
And it got better because as soon as we had arrived in our 84-bed mixed dormitory, we made a few new friends; some Australians passing through Tokyo on the way to the ski slopes. With them, we headed to Shibuya, an area which is famous for its "scramble crossing". It is located right in front of Shibuya Station and it stops vehicles from all directions to allow pedestrians to take over the entire intersection. What did we do when the clock struck twelve? We followed the rest of the thousands and crossed the intersection several times; it was a sea of people running, skipping, New Year's kissing and bumping into policemen. It was just so much fun. We also gave numerous hugs and had photos with many a Japanese person. It was an apt start to our Tokyo adventure, some would say it was the best New Year's Eve to date.

Needless to say, we did not eat okonomiyaki on our first day. Instead, we brought in 2013 with what I thought, at the time, was the best pizza I'd ever tasted.

Happy New Year from a Scotswoman, a South African and an Irish lass!

Shibuya's "scramble intersection" on New Year's Eve. 

Japanese love and New Year's wishes.

Day 2: 

The start of 2013 did not impress all of us as much as we'd hoped. Eventually, the Irish lass, the Scotswoman, the South African and the Australians managed to head out to explore the sights and sounds of Tokyo city. Not long after leaving the hostel, we were crossing a rather intimidating main road, when we heard some hooting and shouting. The man on a scooter was pointing to something on the road behind us. It was none other than Marian's cellular device in the middle of the pedestrian crossing. 

After the fortunate rescue of the phone, we headed to Shinguku to purchase a One Day Tokunai Pass which would allow us to travel to all the tourist spots by train. Yoyogi Park, open from dawn to dusk, is beautiful and one of the few open spaces for people to meet. We came across much street food here and we even saw okonomiyaki for sale but we decided to save it as a treat for another day.

The line for Tokyo Tower was particularly long being New Year's Day. We made the decision to climb the stairs, one I still regret, as our layers of winter clothing came quickly off and we arrived, sweaty messes, at the top of the 150 metre climb to a most average daytime view and a very full, stuffy room. We also managed a brief walk through the famous Harajuku shopping street, catching a glimpse of a few women dressed in "lolita" fashion (a Japanese subculture fashion based on Victorian-era clothing).

New friends.

Marian and I at Tokyo Tower.

Day 3:

Our third day took us to a new hostel in a more cultural part of the city, Asakusa. Before heading to see the sights, we stopped at a small vending machine restaurant. We were particularly fond of these establishments as we could look at the picture, see the price and simply buy a ticket to hand into the kitchen. Absolutely no Japanese language necessary. Each meal tray came with noodles in soup as a side dish. There was little space on Level 1 of the restaurant and so we traipsed up the windy stairs to Level 2. Marian was the last of us to get her meal. I could hear her behind me saying, "I am so proud of myself. I haven't tripped." Well, she didn't trip until the very last step. The noodles and soup went flying all over the floor. I stand to be corrected but I believe the staff member who had to mop up her mess was the only really unfriendly/unhappy Japanese person we came across on our trip.

We spent a good long time in line to see Sensoji, an magnificent, ancient Buddhist temple. In fact, it is the oldest in Tokyo and today, one of the most significant.  It was particularly busy because it was still the New Year's holidays but it was worth the wait to see.

Sensoji Temple.

The crowds of Japanese and tourists alike waiting to visit Sensoji Temple. 

Asakusa also offers a great view of the Tokyo Skytree the tallest tower in the world, and is home to one of Tokyo's most recognisable modern structures; Asahi Breweries headquarters (the famous Japanese beer brand). The building boasts a giant golden flame. We all thought it looked more like a root vegetable.

Tokyo Skytree and Asahi Breweries.

In the late afternoon, we ventured to Akihabara district to wander around Electric City and the plethora of adult shops very much in open sight.

We were desperate to try okonimiyaki for dinner but had to settle for a delicious Japanese curry instead for lack of available restaurants serving it.

Day 4:
We arrived at the very well-known Tsukijishijo, home to Tsukiji fish market, just in time for a lunch of the best sushi any of us had tasted. The market is the biggest wholesale seafood and fish market in the world. Many tourists flock there to see the tuna auctions, held in the early morning. Sadly, because of the time of the year, the market was not open to the public while we were there.

The best and freshest sushi in the world served right here.

Tsujiki Market.

After our rather disappointing experience at Tokyo Tower, we headed to Roppongi, a district famous for the rich Roppongi Hills area and an active night scene. Roppongi Hills Mori Tower offers a brilliant view from the Sky Deck, far better and higher up than Tokyo Tower.

The view from Roppongi Hills Sky Deck.

A highlight was the Mori Art Museum, where Aida Makota's artworks are being exhibited. The museum brochure hails him as "one of the most noted contemporary artists in Japan today". Although much of his art is "grotesque and erotic in style, Aida's work displays an incisive critical faculty when it comes to political and historical issues" (Mori Art Museum brochure). From my very short time in Tokyo, it seems he projects much of modern Japanese society, a chaotic clash between the conservative and the 'out-there' sides of Japanese culture.

No time to even look for okonimiyaki on this day.

Day 5:
Our last day was reserved for the big trip to Fugi-Q amusement park. The Irish lass and the Scotswoman really wanted to go to the scariest haunted hospital in the world. The South African was a little hesitant and rightly so. It was frightening and it was also, sadly, the better part of the day. From then on, it went steadily downhill. We stood in a mightily long queue for two hours and fifteen minutes to participate in a Fortress challenge, only to be kicked out after 5 minutes because we didn't pass the first stage. Never mind that everything was in Japanese! The amusement park food was awful and the beer even worse. The day's saving grace was the first-class view of a snowy Mt Fuji from the park's grounds.

Mt Fuji.

We were flying very early morning, so had planned to spend the night in Narita Airport. Upon our 9pm arrival, however, we were told that Narita (an international airport for one of the busiest and biggest cities in the world) is not a 24 hour airport and no shops or restaurants were open. It seemed our dreams of an okonimiyaki last meal were lost forever. We promptly turned back and slouched on another train ride to find a hotel; our most expensive accommodation for the shortest number of hours. We found a McDonald's at 11pm and returned to the hotel to bring in midnight with mini bottles of wine, which Marian and Kerry had kindly birthday-surprised me with. 

The same Tokyo tourist brochure (which we collected at our 84-bed mixed dorm capsule hostel on the first day) also offered insight about the people of Japan which was immediately evident upon arrival: "Japan has a culture of hospitality. Offering fine service and showing consideration allow guests to enjoy safe and comfortable trip. There is neither showiness not intrusiveness; only thoughtfulness that makes guests thankful." If you have the money to make the trip, I cannot recommend Tokyo enough. The people are hospitable, the streets and buildings clean and the entertainment plentiful.

We arrived back in Pohang exhausted, no okonimiyaki eaten and a host of terrific memories; our own Tokyo discovered and a "precious souvenir" brought home.

SoKo: My Top Ten

My South Korean adventure is coming to an end. To celebrate some of the goodness in the culture-enriching, mind-broadening country that has been my home for two years, here are the ten things I will miss the most about life here.

#10. Kimchi poses:
One would be hard-pressed to find a photograph of me on any of the social networking sites where I am not making some sort of 'kimchi' pose. It has become an instinctual reaction; as the photographer counts to three, my hand naturally pops up next to my head to make a peace sign. Instead of hearing, "Say cheese," you hear, "Kimchi!" Korean girls are particularly prone to the pose phenomenon. Sometimes, they hide so much of their faces, you can't see what they look like.

#9. The respect system:
At present, elderly people generally enjoy a lot of respect in South Korea, which stems from the values of Confucianism which stresses respect for age and seniority among other things. Because of these ingrained social values, Korea remains one of the few countries where the elderly still attract respect. It is so refreshing to see the elderly very much at the centre of society.
Sadly, many of the traditional values appear to be eroding; more and more one sees youngsters sitting in spaces reserved for the elderly on the trains and buses or speaking or behaving really rudely to teachers and parents, for example.

#8. Bukbu Beach:
At first glance, Bukbu Beach is a rather dull-looking piece of coastline with the 'beautiful' Posco steel factory to one side of the bay. But to us local Pohangers, it is a place of wonder and summertime bliss. I will miss the long, lazy afternoons there, cold Cafri beer in hand. I will miss the fireworks and watching groups of middle-aged women doing open-air aerobics classes. I will miss the volleyball tournaments and beach parties and Ultimate Frisbee practices. I will miss the hours of greatness spent with friends.

#7. Teachers' dinners:
Business or work dinners, in my mind, make me think of awkward moments, being on one's best behaviour and polite chatter. The teachers' dinners I have experienced in Korea seem more like a celebration of life; the alcohol flows (if that is what you like) and food is a-plenty, the conversation seems more relaxed than during school hours and often, the evening often ends in a singing room, which brings me to #6.

#6. Noraebang:
Many people will testify to my love-hate relationship with '노래방' (Korean singing rooms/karaoke). But I think I am going to seriously miss ruining some of the great musical hits. More than that, I will miss the random evenings with co-workers and forty bottles of soju or the late-night visits with good friends and Billy Joel's 'Pianoman'. I do not recommend a sober visit to 노래방 if you have any sort of ear or musical background as it can be a painful experience. Usually the people who enjoy singing rooms the most are the people who can't really sing at all.

#5. Konglish:
'Konglish' is the name given to the words in Korean colloquial conversation originally derived from the English language. Often the words are shortened ('apart' for apartment block), words are fabricated ('handphone' for cellular phone) or meanings are entirely changed. A favourite example of the latter is the word, "fighting", which is a term of encouragement in Korea. When someone is having a bad day, about to write an exam or about to play a spot of tennis, you'll hear this expression.
Along with my close friends here, we have developed a whole Konglish language of our own. I am certain Korean people would be weary of our butchering of their language. But I am not looking forward to have to use the word 'yes' again instead of '네', or 'nothing', 'gone', 'finished' instead of '없어요', etc. I am devastated, in fact.

#4. 24 hour restaurants:
There is something to be said for the 24 hour restaurant where one can get good, wholesome food in the middle of the night. My favourite Korean dish just happens to be 해장국 (haejangguk), a spicy, hearty soup made from beef or pork bone broth, soybean paste and various vegetables. It is also known as the 'early morning' or 'hangover' soup because it is often eaten after a heavy night of drinking. I love it any time of the day or night and it is the one dish I am going to miss dreadfully.

#3. Being told I am beautiful:
I will seriously miss being told I am attractive several times a day. Even on my worst day ever, students and strangers will comment on my 'beauty'. By not being Korean, one has a distinct beauty 'advantage' here, apparently. I am not looking forward to a return to plain Jane status in my own country.

#2. Transportation excellence:
The South Korean public transport system has to be one of the best in the world. There are intercity buses to  just about everywhere in the country and they always depart and arrive on time. The inner city buses are also incredibly reliable (although not much can be said for the actual stop-and-start, jerking, speeding bus driving. If one is standing, one has to really hold on in case of a sudden halt throwing one across the vehicle). Taxi trips are ridiculously affordable, which makes early morning or late night travel simple and effective. In the bigger cities, subways abound and the KTX speed train allows one to travel across the country in record time. Sadly, Pohang does not benefit from either of the above-mentioned options.

#1. The unbelievable people I have met:
I have, without doubt, made friends for life in this country. And this is the main reason it is difficult to leave. It has been so easy being a member of the Pohang community especially; the tennis players and Greenball Club kept my love of the sport alive, my co-workers at all four schools, Ultimate Frisbee friends and fun, making theatre happen with the Pohang Players, staff members at Tilt and Porto's and the 'Korean Street' bars, the 107 bus drivers, the cashiers at Home Plus who (embarrassingly) know me by name, and my students for which reason I am actually here and make every day horrendous or magical.

It has been an unforgettable two years, South Korea, unforgettable...

Oops, I did it again!

On arrival in Bohol province, our travel group caught a minivan from the ferry terminal; ten of us with our backpacks in half the number of seats. Needless to say, it was hardly a comfortable trip but it was indeed a cheap one, so there were few complaints on the drive through Panglao Island to reach Alona Beach, our final  destination. 

Alona Beach is a small stretch of tropical paradise on Panglao Island which is fast becoming popular with tourists because of its white sand, blue water and excellent diving conditions. As it was the off-season, our group had slipped away for a little quiet, relaxation away from the crowds and honeymooners in more popular Filipino attractions like Boracay and her well-known White Beach. 

Alona Beach.
Photo: Jacqui and Pippa Klug

As we all bundled out of the minivan and collected our luggage, we could hear the afternoon skies begin to rumble. We knew we had to find accommodation quickly and split up to look for the best deal. Because it was the off-season, many of the resorts and hotels had dramatically upped their prices. We were determined to find somewhere reasonably priced and right on the beach. Just as we were about to give up, soaking wet and rather discouraged, we stumbled upon a beach bar and took cover to contemplate our next move. 

"Hello. Welcome to Oops Bar! It's happy hour," said a smiling Lorlyn, as if there wasn't monsoon rain bucketing down all around us. And that was the moment our love affair with the Oops establishment began. I refused to leave, promptly sitting down at the bamboo beach bar for a celebratory San Miguel, 50 cent, ice-cold beer. Conveniently, Oops had some simple and rustic rooms-for-two available for a very reasonable price. We booked five of them with Lorlyn and went to tell the others of our great find. It could not have been any better a place to stay. 

Our little thatched huts tucked away in the forest at Ooops, Alona Beach.
Photo: Jacqui and Pippa Klug

Dinner on Oops verandah. Bliss.
Photo: Jacqui and Pippa Klug

Oops' kitchen and drinks bar was open around the clock with an extensive menu available. On our first night, we all had dinner together at a table on the sand; meat pies, fresh seafood and chicken cordon bleu with fresh fruit smoothies or ice cream for dessert. Musicians looking for a small tip came over to serenade the group with well-known classics from the good old days when music was still played with instruments. 

A mural on one of the shop's walls. And a very apt expression at that!
Photo: Jacqui and Pippa Klug

Some of the gang enjoying the good weather in front of Oops.
Photo: Jacqui and Pippa Klug

Over the next few days, it was difficult to leave our prime beach location but we managed to venture out by car and by scooter to see some of Bohol's world famous sites, like the Chocolate Hills, over 1200 naturally formed hills of roughly the same size which take on a brown, chocolate colour at the end of the dry season , and the Tarsier Sanctuary, which serves as a protected habitat for Philippine tarsiers which are believed to be the world's smallest primates. Some took a boat out snorkeling, others hiked to a waterfall.   

Sam Wloch and I jovial at the Chocolate Hills.
Photo: Reneldon Moodley

Exploring Panglao Island on two wheels.
Kerry Dandie became a motorbike expert.

Every new country or city offers something different, either good or bad. It is usually good just because it is new and interesting. The Philippines is a developing country and as a tourist, the local people will always try to make money off you. That said, I have always maintained that a country is its people; that the people make the country what it is. 

The Philippines has over 7000 islands of beautiful beaches, mountains, wildlife, historical sites and plenty delicious food but it is the local people who make it a country I would recommend anyone visit. Not once, in our ten days, were we made to feel unwelcome. In every situation, there was a smiling face, a friendly comment, a helping hand. 

Bohol province, Panglao Island and Alona Beach is especially memorable because of the fantastic staff, food and service at Oops Bar and the friendly residents we met in the shops, streets, on the beach and in the local watering holes.

The ten reasons from whence Oops Bar got its name.
I think there is many a traveler who has battled to leave.
Photo: Pippa Francis

The Philippines should make anyone's travel list for the Asian continent. My friends and I nearly chose to 'miss our plane' back to South Korea (reason #3) and 'forget where we live' (reason #9). It is an incredible country.

The Philippines, August 2012

A little creative biography...

Pohang's second team, the Hangovers, is very much a new addition to the Korean frisbee scene in 2012. But do not let their slightly ambiguous title fool you. They are in no way a second rate team; the Hangovers may be serious about the art of a good party but they are even more serious about the ultimates of frisbee.

Consisting of 12 superb human beings, 11 of whom had never seen a frisbee until very recently, the Hangovers are a severely slick unit, ready to take on the most dangerously deft of teams. Fresh from their orientation tour of Las Vegas (the legendary Bukbu Beach motel), the members returned to practices last week generally unscathed and with renewed energy except for a few missing teeth, some frightening photos and the addition of a giant Bengal tiger to the mix.

Daniel Boyle: Affectionately known as the "Boyler Maker", he is the only member of the team to have ever held, thrown, caught or heard of a frisbee before this summer. He is, what you'd call, a patient captain.

Chris Kuisle: A master of all trades, Kuisle turned down the opportunity of lead role in a sold-out tour with Korea's renowned cast of Shakespeare's "Hamlet" in order to stay true to his Hangovers commitment. Bravo!

Patrick O'Malley: Veritably untouchable on the field, he is that fast, O'Malley can run forever. He is known to takes short 'naps' on the middle of the dance floor some nights to accumulate extra energy for frisbee matches the next day.

Oliver Von Votteler: Despite his adept motions and fine frisbee form, Oli is an absolute charmer on and off the field, where he has ladies swooning at every word. He could prove to be one of the Hangovers' greatest weapons this season.

Kerry "Dinosaur" Dandie: Dandie, an avid team player, is infamous in frisbee practice circles for bringing entire matches to a standstill with her terrifying 'dinosaur' hands. She insists they are a purely natural reactional gesture when she is under pressure from the opposing team.

Tiffany Alston: Ms. Alston may initially come across as a somewhat timid soul. But be warned, she can be extremely agressive when it comes to defending her territory. Being one of the taller members on the team, she has no problem reaching over, under and through the opposition.

Michael David Atkins: Always to be called by his full name, Michael David Atkins has added ultimate frisbee to his extensive list of extra-curricular activities. They now total 40 different sporting disciplines. He assures us that frisbee is fast moving to the number one spot.

Siobhan Davey: Ms. Davey is a very important member of the team. Sadly, no one can really understand her because she speaks faster than any other human being alive. Fortunately, not too much actual day-to-day conversation takes place during play time.

Forrest Walker: After replacing his two front teeth (there was a rather unfortunate event at the Las Vegas orientation), Walker has regained his Captain America status; tall, blond, strong and fierce on the frisbee field.

Philippa "McEnroe" Francis: Her expletive-ridden rants to herself have gone down in Pohang lore for their sheer creativity. Her trademark move is to swear extensively at the opposing team whilst throwing the frisbee to no one in particular. Watch out though. A team member almost always catches the disc. And scores.

Stephanie Bracken: Bracken loves two things; food and frisbee. If she is not talking about the one, she's most definitely talking about the other. Not a bad sign.

Nick Maffeo: Maffay-yoyo is the mystery member of the Hangovers side. Sometimes you seem him, sometimes you don't. But apparently he has hired a personal technical trainer. We're expecting some explosive frisbee form come the start of the league.

The Hangovers' goals:
To win occasionally, of course.
To improve in skill and understanding of the game.
To make some fantastic new mates.
And always to 'hang' in true Korean east coast style.

Important stats:
Losses: 0
The Hangovers start the season forever undefeated, a most admirable achievement.

Embrace the differences, enjoy the similarities

“Those who visit foreign nations but associate only with their countrymen, change their climate but not their customs. They see new meridians but the same men, and return home with traveled bodies and untraveled minds.”
             These are the words of the 19^th century English cleric and writer, Charles Caleb Colton. And they are hard to disagree with. There are very few similarities between South Korea and South Africa, besides the ‘South’ in both countries’ names. Most things differ; from the food to culture to weather. There are many challenges when it comes to communication, educational systems and the way of life. But teaching English in a foreign country, especially South Korea, can be an educational, awe-inspiring opportunity if you only let it be. 

             Change your mind set. Many a foreigner comes to South Korea to teach English. They have no idea what to expect and grow frustrated, therefore, with the communication barrier, the food or the way things work in the public schooling system. Some teachers seem to forget that they actually applied to work as a native English teacher in this country. You are the foreigner; it is not the other way around. Make an effort to adjust to Korean life and enjoy your teaching experience, even though things work a little differently here.

             Respect the culture. And in turn, you will earn respect for your own culture. When you show enthusiasm to learn about the way things are done here, you’ll notice an immediate attitude change towards you. Bow to those older than you and learn the basic greetings as soon as you arrive. If you go out to eat with your co-teacher, ask them to teach you a few of the table manners and traditions; like pouring drinks for others or waiting for the eldest person at the table to begin eating. Learn how to eat with chopsticks instead of asking for a fork. As time goes on, in the classroom, you will get used to how students react to certain material, their level of maturity and how much pressure they deal with daily. 

Yeungam Tennis Club 2011.

             Get involved. You are in an interesting foreign land; make your time here count. Find common ground where you can. Go to as many teachers’ dinners as you can; you’d be surprised how much fun they can be and the friends you can make. Have an open-door policy in your classroom environment. Talk to your students during break times and free lessons; these are the times they really learn English from you. Join a teachers’ or private sports club, even if it is a sport you have never played. If you are not a sporty person, why not start a theatre troupe or a singing group? Learn a little Korean or a lot if you can. Being able to communicate with Korean people shows them you are making an effort to be part of their society and they will respect you for that. It also makes daily life so much easier here.

The Pohang Players Theatre Group at the Busan
International Performing Arts Festival.
"That's right" won first prize.

             Be patient. And with patience will come some wonderful memories and experiences. Soon, you will be sad to leave. You will miss the ‘strange’, spicy food, your friends, the excellent public transport, the dedication of most teachers, the few fantastic students that made your job so worth it. And you will certainly miss being made welcome in a country just because you speak a language fluently. Some of you may never leave because you love Korean life so much.

             There is most definitely a difference between ‘overcoming cultural challenges’ and ‘accepting cultural challenges’ and working through them. Make a little effort every day and you will indeed leave Korea body and mind well-traveled.    

Working in the countryside provides the opportunity
of meeting some wonderful people you
wouldn't otherwise meet.

Sport? Nah, what's that?

When I imagine a school athletics day, I see track and field, hurdles and baton relays, designated areas for high jump and long jump, war cries and cheerleading teams, each 'house' team divided by the colour they wear, whistles and starting guns, stopwatches and scoreboards, trophies and prizegivings. When I was at school, I looked forward to sports day and dreaded it all at the same time. I loved wearing sporty clothes, eating frozen lollipops, supporting my team mates, screaming my voice hoarse and I liked running the sprints. I did not enjoy picking up the litter at the end of the day or high jump or shotput trials or the 800m race, which I inevitably ran because no one else would. The 800m was a tough race because you had to kind of sprint the whole distance anyway.

When I was told that it was sports day at my all-girls' high school in Korea, I knew to expect something different. Whereas the boys' schools in this country generally follow the 'traditional' athletic sports day, very little emphasis is placed on physical education or sport in girls' schools. I thought there would be a bit of running but little else to do with athletics. I could not have dreamed what it would be like.

I arrived at school in the morning to find over 900 girls assembled on the school field. Each and every class in the school was dressed in different costumes; some in long, flowing skirts and others in luminous or hospital overalls. There was a class dressed in leopard print and another two classes in baseball and soccer uniforms. I battled to recognise some of my students because they had so much make-up on and looked as old as me in some cases. The latest pop music was blaring, the MC was roaring, and the girls were having an absolute ball.  

Apart from some very loud music, singing and jumping around, there was not much actual sporting activity, the most strenuous class contest involving passing a large, soft ball up and down the line. But it was such fun; the students took lots of photos and it was wonderful to see them taking a break from their jam-packed study schedule.

Just as the morning was drawing to a close, the MC announced a baton relay race for combined teacher-student teams. One class didn't have two teachers to run. After much incessant pleading, I agreed to running in the race. I kept insisting that someone else do it, however, as I hadn't sprinted since high school (a very long time ago). "Oh, but you play tennis. You will be the best!" Occasional social tennis versus the 100m sprint? Mmmm...

Naturally, I had been assured several times the day before not to worry about bringing sports clothes and fortunately, I have lived in Korea long enough to know that nothing happens quite as planned. Before leaving my apartment, I packed a pair of trackpants, a T-shirt and a much-needed sports bra. I managed to borrow some ill-fitting shoes from another student (yes, they were much too small) and headed for the starting line. Because I am a foreign teacher, I was made to do a little dance in front of the whole school to earn my place in the race, even though I had in fact been 'forced' to run.

At this point, I wish I'd still had my camera. The 'baton' was in fact a huge cylindrical-shaped stuffed cushion over a metre long. Even if you are a fast runner, you will lose time running with that thing under your arm.  Nevertheless, I ran the 100m well, leaving all the men in my dust.  Our eight-man team came second overall. For a few minutes, I was enjoying the adrenalin, when I was told I would have to run in the final. Final? There were only two races, for goodness sake! The second time, I made sure I ran faster and put more distance between me and my competition. We ended up winning the relay. Suddenly, I was the coolest teacher alive. It was still worth it the next day, when I awoke stiff and sore and coughing up a lung, because the students showed me new-found respect in English class...for one day.

After a well-earned lunch, we all headed to the back of the school, where there is an outside auditorium of sorts. This was undoubtedly the highlight of the day for students and teachers alike: the talent contest. There was amazing dancing, excellent choreography, creative costumes, beautiful singing and much loud sing along music. The girls went absolutely wild. And, I was once again welcomed onto the stage to dance like a fool.

By the end of the day, my mouth was actually exhausted from all the smiling and I could feel muscles I didn't know existed. Okay, I admit, I missed the athletics and the competition a little bit. But otherwise, seriously, who knew 'sports' day could be so darn cool?! 

My Travel ABCs

A: Age you went on your first international trip
I believe I was just four years old when my stepdad, mom, baby brother and I moved to Simunye, Swaziland for two years. It was a magical two years of real life, real people and freedom. A few years later, my stepdad commuted to and from Durban, South Africa, for a while in my early high school years. He was working near Maputo, Mozambique. It was incredibly difficult for him but wonderful for us to visit him during the school holidays. That trip still makes me smile. Another northern Mozambican stint followed in my last two years of high school and another glorious vacation in the middle of nowhere on the Zambezi River. I first left the African continent in my last year of school, for Mauritius, and French tour. I had to take a loan from my mom and stepdad for the trip and only finished paying them back last year, some seven years later.

B: Best foreign beer you've had and where
This is easy. It was a Lowenbrau draft beer in the tent of the same name at the Oktoberfest in Munich. It was the first tent we stepped into, I was wearing a ridiculous hat on my head surrounded by people from the world over singing in German, amazing friends by my side and a beautiful litre of beer in my hand. It doesn't get much better! We returned to Lowenbrau several times on that trip.
A close second is a Tiger beer from Cambodia; mainly because it was after a very hot, sticky day of travelling. Ice-cold glass, cold beer, great company, fantastic food and a Tiger beer = bliss.

C: Cuisine
I don't need to think about this one at all. Traditional prawn curry in a back street restaurant in Siem Reap, Cambodia. After six months with "same-same" Korean food, a good curry was a revelation. Every meal we ate in Cambodia was delightful.
Pizza has never been my favourite meal but after walking the streets of Florence for over four hours, we fell upon a tiny pizzeria. We each ordered a ridiculously expensive slice of pizza and a coke. That was the best piece of ham and mushroom pizza in the world. We all thought so. Pizza must have originated in Italy.

D: Destinations - favourite, least favourite and why
To choose a favourite destination is incredibly difficult as each city, place, site has its own allure, something remarkable, a different kind of beauty. If I have to choose, I'd have to say Rome was my favourite all-round destination. It is one of the places I most want to visit properly. Two days in this ancient city was certainly not long enough. Besides the obvious attractions (The Colosseum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain), I want to walk the streets until I can't walk anymore. I want to spend a day on the Spanish steps at the Piazza di Spagna and watch the world go by.
The south of France (Maresielles, Avignon, Arles) comes a very close second.
Siem Reap, Cambodia, was a favourite for very different reasons. I simply felt at home there; I loved the people, the food, the vibe and the general atmosphere.
I don't have a least favourite destination. Each and every single place I have been to has exceeded my expectations. I think it is because I believe it is the one and only time I'll get there and so, I make the absolute most of it.

E: Event you experienced abroad that made you say "wow"
My dream came true when I worked at the Wimbledon Championship. It was absolutely magical, almost surreal experience and nothing will quite live up to it.  

Even though our tour group was rushed through like a herd of cattle, the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican City made me weep with admiration. I could not believe I actually had the chance to witness something I had only learnt about in history textbooks and art classes. The Sistine Chapel is the best-known of the chapels in the Apostolic Palace. Many artists' works adorn the walls but it is Michaelangelo's ceiling painting, which was the highlight for me. I felt as if I was in a dream world.


F: Favourite mode of transport
On arrival at Siem Reap Airport, Cambodia, the little guesthouse my friends, Helyn, Jinae and I had booked sent someone to pick us up. But it wasn't a taxi or minibus. It was a tuc-tuc; a sort of carriage pulled by a motorbike. A fantastic concept! We only had one day at the Angkor temples and thus, hired a tuc-tuc for the morning to drive us around. It was incredibly bumpy at times but a treat to be in the open air while being 'carried' around. 

G: Greatest feeling while travelling
As an aspiring journalist, any opportunity to travel is one I grab with both hands. I love learning, seeing and experiencing new cultures, writing about them, and reminiscing about them for years to come. I suppose my greatest feeling while travelling was when I had just walked up the 129 metre Montmartre hill in Paris, France. It was the last night of a whirlwind European tour. I had made wonderful friends on the tourbus and we were all dressed up for a Moulin Rouge cabaret and dinner. The Basilique du Sacre Coeur, the Roman Catholic church and familiar landmark, stands at the summit of Montmartre. Facing away from the Basilica, one looks out over the whole of Paris. It was the end of a glorious trip and we all felt like we were on top of the world.   

H: Hottest place you've travelled to
Danang, central Vietnam, was the place I got a good tan along with a nice bout of heat stroke. I  often felt on the point of collapsing on our trip through Vietnam. We covered a lot of country in 7 days and it was so very humid. I didn't bother with face cream, make-up, body lotion, none of it, as it would simply run off. I perspire a lot usually. In Vietnam, I perspired unnaturally much. Helyn often wondered if there was something wrong with me. 

I: Incredible service you've experienced and where
Paris, France. The waiters were dressed in suits or tuxedos in the smallest of cafes and bistros. You paid a healthy sum for the good service, obviously, but it was most worth it.  

J: Journey that took the longest
Travelling anywhere from South Africa is generally long. Travelling to my current home in Pohang, South Korea,  I would have to catch three flights and a long bus ride door-to-door. This journey can take up to 30 hours or more.
I also remember a hair-raising, overnight bus ride from Siem Reap, Cambodia, to Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam. It took close on 17 hours. The bus was in supreme condition, as you can imagine. I think we got the last three tickets on the bus and were squashed into the very back seats. Surprisingly, all three of us slept very well despite the tar/gravel/half tar roads, pit stops in nowhere land, across the border bag carrying and no space. Upon our arrival, we were very ready for a long shower, some good food and lots of bababa (333) beer.

K: Keepsake from your travels
I try to keep a basic scrapbook and journal when I travel anywhere. As difficult as it is to do at the time, it brings great joy when looking back some time later. And I buy something different every place I go; whether it's a bracelet, chopsticks, a funny T-shirt or a magnet for the fridge. But my favourite keepsakes are the photos. Memories are absolutely priceless.

L: Let-down sight, why and where
Mona Lisa, Louvre Museum, Paris. Even though people warned me not to get my hopes up, I was still most excited to see the woman with the following eyes. The Mona Lisa is quite a small painting, covered and protected by several layers of glass, and is impossible to photograph without having several other tourists in the picture.   

M: Moment where you fell in love with travel
I had some glorious and horrendous experiences while living in England. For the first six months, I hardly had any money; it all went to rent, food and transport (living in London is ridiculously expensive). In the October though, a friend and I arranged 3 days off work. We flew to Munich, Germany, for the famous Oktoberfest beer festival. We took only hand luggage with us, camped in a massive camp site with thousands of other like-minded people, showered for a minute a day, and drank the best beer in the world. 
One of the days, I was standing on a table in Hofbrau beer tent surrounded by people from around the world; Italy, South Africa, Brazil, Australia, Poland, Scotland and the USA. We were singing a German folk song. I had a stein in my hands and a smile in my heart. It was then that I realised I wanted to go everywhere and see everything; the moment I realised I was absolutely in love with travel. 

N: Nicest hotel you've stayed in
I have always travelled cheaply. I haven't stayed in an sophisticated or expensive hotels, I don't think. As long as there are some sort of ablutions, I am happy.
I suppose the best hotel I stayed in was while playing junior tennis in Umhlanga, KwaZulu Natal. Well, it seemed very 'nice' at the time. We stayed in the lovely hotel for free, food and activities included, and as long as we remained in the draw of the tennis tournament.
Next year, I will make sure I spend at least one night in a five-star hotel on my travels of south-east Asia.

O: Obsession - what you're obsessed with taking pictures of while travelling
People. Sometimes I take so mant pictures of the people, I forgot about the famous sites, museums, churches, temples and beautiful beaches.

P: Passport stamps, how many, from where
I have 40 stamps in my current passport. They come (in order of travel) from Johannesburg - South Africa; Mauritius; London Heathrow - England; Paris - France; Munich - Germany; Calais - France (only one stamp for an 18-day tour of 9 countries); Gatwick - England; Geneva - Switzerland; Cork - Republic of Ireland; Lille - France; Dusseldorf - Germany; Incheon - South Korea; Siem Reap - Cambodia and Hanoi - Vietnam. 

Q: Quirkiest attraction you've visited and where
Sometimes travelling within one's country is just as interesting as travelling abroad. There is a very quirky little town called Kalk Bay in Cape Town. Located on the coast, one can walk along the water, popping now and again into little antique stores, quaint coffee shops and my favourite, The Brass Bell, a favourite on many an international tourist's itinerary.

R: Recommended sight/ event/ experience
Siem Reap's Angkor temples. Some people say Angkor Wat temple is a let-down. With scaffolding and all, I thought it was magnificent. I was in awe from the beginning of the day to the very end.

S: Splurge
Seeing the sites is my number one priority. If I have money left over, it goes towards tasting the finest beer of the region. Food follows in close succession. But I would rather eat and drin nothing and see everything!

T: 'Touristy' thing you've done
I have done the 'jumping' picture in the front of the Eiffel Tower. I have been on a gondola in Venice in the pouring rain (magical) and stepped off with a huge wet patch on my rear. I have walked around Berlin, Germany, with a fanny pack around my waist and a camera hanging around my neck. I have worn tennis shoes (tekkies) with jeans, which my school friends would tell me is a huge fashion blunder. What is great about being a tourist is that no one really cares what you look like, including yourself.  

U: Unforgettable travel memory
Contiki May/June 2010; a whirlwind European tour of nine countries on a bus with fifty other like-minded people. It was eighteen days of amazing sites, food, friends, fun, singing, parties and people. I want to do it all over again.

V: Visas, how many and for where
1x United Kingdom two-year working/ holiday visa (non-existent these days); 2x Schengen visas (for travel in the Schengen countries which includes most of the Eurozone countries); 1x South Korea work visa; 1x Vietnam tourist visa, 1x Cambodia tourist visa.

W: Wine, best glass while travelling and where
The last of my European trips was to the south of France with a great friend, Susan. We went with very little money and ate a lot of dry baguettes in anticipation of the wine. For a few days, we hired a car and drove through the wine routes of Arles and Avignon, stopping at random wineries in amongst the lavender fields. We tasted some glorious wines. In one of my journals in storage, I have the name of my favourite winery, where we met a woman who raved about Johnny Clegg (a well-known South African musician) while we tasted her best merlot. That was a wonderful glass of wine.
To this day, however, Beyerskloof Pinotage, from the good ol' Western Cape winelands, remains my ultimate.

X: Excellent view and where
This is, and will most probably remain, the view of Cape Town city from Signal Hill. There are many people who would agree, I am sure.

Y: Years travelling
This is my fourth year of "travelling"/ working in foreign countries and it will most likely be my last year before hitting the real world. I spent about 18 months in the UK. And 2012 is my second year in Korea. I wish I could travel for a living.

Z: Zealous sports fans and where
Football/ soccer fans anywhere seem to pretty darn zealous. The English supporters are especially infamous for their passion for the game. Often, if I was on the train or the bus on a big match day, I would have to be careful to not upset on the fans as they could be quite aggressive to those who did not agree.
Korean people, fascinatingly, can also be fanatical. I have attended a few soccer and baseball games here. One of the baseball games we watched, it rained the entire length of the game. There was hardly a seat free in the stands, however. It looked like a blanket of white with everyone donning cheap plastic rain jackets. We were sopping wet at the end of it but had a wonderful experience to add to the memory bank.